Many people start their seedlings indoors to get a jump on the season, particularly if you have a short season. That is nothing new. For the short season here in our high altitude location, this is especially important. There are many ways to do this, using greenhouses, grow lights, grow mats, seedling trays, plugs, peat pots, etc. Everyone has their favorite method, as do I.
Update, August 8, 2017: After attempting to start a few seeds outdoors, I’ve decided I will start ALL my seedlings indoors from now on. The seedlings started outdoors have not done well. Even though most days are warm, or even quite hot, our high altitude nights are cold, and I believe that this inhibits the growth of small seedlings. I think that the better start they get at the beginning, the healthier they will be outdoors, and harvest will come sooner, which is important in our short season.
I use “SOIL BLOCKS”, and start most of my seedlings indoors, under grow lights. The soil blocks are made with block makers made by Ladbrooke Soil Blockers. They can be found at several garden supply websites such as GrowOrganic.com or JohnnySeeds.com, along with information about using them. It’s a bit of an investment, but these blockers make great plant starts with a high success rate. If you don’t want to spend the money, there are instructions for making your own DIY block makers found on several sites on the internet. Making the blocks takes a little practice and some trial and error, but after a little practice, it’s “as easy as pie” — mud pie, that is. The blocks are easy to plant—no trying to remove them from small pots or carefully separate them out of seeding trays. Transplanting is easy both for you and for the plants.
It’s helpful to read the booklet, “Transplants in Soil Blocks” by David Tresemer. He did a lot of research using this method, and explains which seeds can be started in soil blocks, as well as how many seeds can be planted in each block (for multiplanting), etc. To make the blocks, I use a recipe which uses peat or coco, perlite, compost, and some various minerals and nutrients. The recipes I use can be found here.
Germination starts for many of the smaller size seeds (flowers, herbs, tomatoes, peppers) in the 3/4″ MICRO blocks shown here. This gives them a chance to start in a cozy, warm, small space, with very little soil. The Ladbrooke blocker to make these makes 20 small blocks at a time. I put them in these inexpensive cake pans, or other plastic containers saved from frozen meals. The seeds start more quickly in these small blocks and nutrient-rich soil than they would outside. One benefit of starting seeds this way is that when seeds don’t sprout, you haven’t wasted much space or material. It’s important to keep these small seeds & seedlings moist, but not too wet while in these blocks. I usually keep a sprayer handy and spray them a couple of times a day, with some extra water in the tray for bottom watering. Until the seedlings emerge, I keep a lid on loosely, and keep the trays on TOP of my grow lights, to allow for bottom warmth. Once they emerge, they go under the lights, which are kept about 2” above the seedlings. If they do get too dry, not to worry, they’ll usually perk up just fine after some water is applied.
After the seeds sprout and appear to be established, they can easily be transferred to blocks slightly larger, where the roots will have more room to grow. This shows the micro blocks placed into the mini blocks. After seeds have begun to grow, they are transplanted into 2″ MINI blocks, The 2″ mini blocks can be made with a cube-shaped hole in the middle just the right size to fit the ¾” micros. The photo here shows how nicely they fit. This gives the seedlings a chance to grow more before being transplanted either outdoors or into MAXI blocks for further growth indoors.
Some larger seeds, such as beets, squash, and even corn & beans can be started directly in this size of block, which can also be made with a ½” dimple in which to place the seeds. With this method I even start my corn and beans in blocks, although most garden resources indicate they should not be started indoors and that they don’t transplant well. In our short growing season it gives them a nice head start, and when transplanted outside I have nice, even rows of things that have all germinated–no empty spaces from sprouting failures. I also use aluminum cake pans for these, with 20 blocks per tray, loosely covered with the plastic lids until seedlings are too large for the lid. Many seedlings can stay in this size block until being planted in the garden, others may need to be transplanted again, into larger blocks.
After plants begin to outgrow the 2” mini blocks but need to remain indoors for more growth, they can be transplanted into the 4″ maxi block until they are ready to be transplanted outside. These blocks are made with a 2″ indentation, just about the right size to fit the 2″ blocks.
I feel that the cube indentation is a bit short for many of the seedlings, such as tomatoes, which can be buried more deeply up the stem. To make more space I will dig about 1/4-1/2″ of the soil out with a kitchen fork from the bottom of each block’s indentation. After putting the smaller block into the larger, I add some soil at the top and bury the stem just a little more.
See how fast they grow, and how healthy they are, after being started under lights! The tomatoes (2013) were started at 8 weeks before the last frost, and were ready to go outside, but the outside wasn’t quite ready for them. They got a bit taller than I’d like prior to planting out. They don’t really gain much by being started too soon before going outside. I believe 6-7 weeks is plenty of time for tomatoes to get a good start, and if the weather should be too nasty for them to be planted out, another week inside won’t cause any harm. See how nice and leafy these plants are?
Many plants started indoors or in greenhouses get too tall and leggy. At the right is a photo of my first year’s tomato plants, before I began to use the soil blocks. A good way to keep them from getting too tall indoors is to keep the lights just a couple of inches above the top of the plants. It’s also helpful to put a fan on them a portion of each day, or to wiggle them with your hands a bit, to strengthen the stems. This is particularly helpful if your location is windy—they need to get ready to withstand that wind outside!
Below is a photo of one of my tomatoes in 2017, just prior to planting. It is not too tall, dark green, and it should grow well after being planted out.
After getting a good start indoors, planting out is a cinch, and there is a better chance of a good harvest in our high altitude short season.